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3D knitting, in action

A 3D knitting machine makes a shaped piece straight from one continuous yarn, one row of loops at a time. Nothing is cut from a sheet of fabric, so almost nothing is wasted. Here is how it works, step by step, with a monkey head designed in LOOP.

Knit along

Watch Suzanne knit

Suzanne, Blender's monkey head, 16 cm ear to ear, in LOOP's Fabric view: 29,969 stitches on 145 needles over 682 courses, drawn from the real knit data. Every loop of yarn appears in the order the machine knits it.

Off the machine

Off the needles, onto the model

The machine doesn't knit a head that stands up on its own: Suzanne comes out of the needle bed as limp fabric, hanging from the needles, and takes her shape only on the form. LOOP's Fabric view shows both: it simulates the fabric hanging as the machine knits it, then wraps the finished piece onto the model.

The basics

Loops, courses and wales

Knitted fabric is one yarn pulled through itself, loop by loop, row after row. This is Suzanne's, up close in LOOP's Fabric view.

On the needles

How a loop gets onto a needle

A flat knitting machine has two beds of latch needles: each needle is a hook with a small hinged latch. As the carriage passes, every needle in turn pulls a new loop through the one it holds. One pass, one course.

Shaping

Short rows

A knitting machine's bed is straight, and it only ever knits rows. Curves come from short rows: courses that stop part of the way across and turn back, while the needles they skip hold their loops.

Suzanne's short rows

593 of Suzanne's 682 courses are short rows, and they set how long each wale runs: 386 loops down the middle of the face and over the crown, just 21 or 22 beside the ears. Here are three places they show, each course picked out in turn in two oranges, with its stretch of the knitmap below.

Suzanne in the Fabric view, seen from the side, with courses 312 to 380 in two shades of orange: they fan out from beside the ear over the top of the head.

The crown

Courses 312–380 shorten toward the middle of the bed and widen again, twice over, turning back short of the ears. The top of the head gets rows its sides don't, so from the side they fan out over the crown, like the swatch's wedges.

Close-up of one of Suzanne's ears in the Fabric view, with courses 399 to 422 in two shades of orange filling the cup of the ear.

An ear

Each ear is a pocket of short rows at the edge of the bed: 24 courses on just 8 to 24 needles, while more than a hundred others hold their loops. Knitting back and forth over so few needles cups the fabric.

Suzanne from behind in the Fabric view, with courses 466 to 523 in two shades of orange: a band across the back of the head, deepest in the middle and rising behind each ear.

The back of the head

Courses 466–523 knit pockets of short rows at either edge of the bed, then shorten toward the middle and lengthen again. They knit a band that is deepest at the back of the head and rises behind each ear, curving it round.

Machine data

Suzanne's knit program

This is the .DAT file LOOP wrote for Suzanne: the program a Shima Seiki machine knits her from. Each row is one pass of the carriage and each column one needle, every colour an instruction: knit, tuck, transfer. The columns down the sides set the carriage's speed, the yarn carriers and more. Beside it, the same program as text: LOOP's knitcode, course by course, and knitout, the open format for knitting machines. Like any program, it is proved on a prototype before production.

Your turn

Knit your own shape

Bring a 3D model. LOOP plans every course, from cast-on to bind-off.

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